Shaving Tips for the Traditional Wet Shaver

Shaving Tips for the Traditional Wet Shaver

January 16, 2023Drew Mitchell

Tips for Wet Shaving

Shaving isn't complicated. Take a razor, remove the hair. But there is a considerable distance between an adequate shave and a good one, and it's covered by a handful of habits rather than by expensive equipment.

Take the Time

Shaving shouldn't be rushed, but it should be efficient. Better to carve a few careful strokes through good lather than to saw repeatedly at the same patch of drying skin.

The first casualty of haste is preparation, which most men treat as optional. Your face should be clean and hydrated before the blade touches it.

Use the Right Soap

Use a soap made for your face. Hand soaps are more caustic and strip the oils out of the skin. Leave a gentle soap on for around a minute, then rinse. If you're using a flannel, pat rather than rub.

Use the Right Lather

Aerosol foams contain propellant, which helps them ship and store but tends to dry the skin. A shaving soap or cream worked with a brush gives a denser, more cushioning lather.

Soap, cream, foam or gel is ultimately personal preference. Try a few before you commit.

Apply With a Brush

A brush beats fingers for two reasons. Your fingers carry oil and grime. And a brush works lather into each individual hair, lifting it upright so the blade can take it cleanly.

Work it in circles. A decent brush is soft enough to be vigorous with, and it gives a little gentle exfoliation while it's there.

Keep a Sharp Blade

Nothing causes irritation as reliably as a blunt blade. If the edge won't slice a hair, it yanks it, and the skin around the base of the hair takes the damage. Repeated across a whole face, that's razor burn.

Discard a blade at the first nick. Shaving daily, expect to replace it every week or two. A fresh cheap blade beats an expensive one you've had for a month.

We no longer stock razor blades — our guidance on blade life and compatibility still applies whichever brand you buy.

The Straight Razor — If You Know How

A cut-throat, or straight razor, gives the closest shave available. It also demands practice, and it is unforgiving. If you need three coffees before you can face the morning, use something more fool-proof.

Temperature and Preparation

Warm water softens both the hair and the surface of the skin, which is why shaving straight out of the shower works so well and why barbers reach for a hot towel. Rinse afterwards with cool water to calm the skin.

A pre-shave oil applied before the lather adds a protective layer between the blade and the skin.

Pay Attention to the Grain

Facial hair doesn't grow in one direction. It loops and swirls. Shave along the grain rather than against it — fewer strokes, less razor burn, fewer ingrown hairs.

To find your grain, let the stubble grow a couple of days and run a hand across it. Where the grain changes direction sharply, make a mental note and give it extra care next time.

Get a Barber to Do It

Few men can afford a daily barber shave. It's still worth paying for one occasionally — before a wedding, an anniversary, or anything you'll be photographed at. It also shows you what you're aiming for at home.

Wet Shaving FAQs

How often should you replace a razor blade?

Shaving daily, every five to seven shaves. Change it the moment it tugs rather than glides, and discard it at the first nick.

Do you shave with or against the grain?

With the grain. Against it gives a closer cut at the cost of razor burn and ingrown hairs. If you need closer, re-lather and take a second pass across the grain.

Why use a shaving brush?

It works the lather into each hair and lifts it upright, so the blade cuts rather than drags. It also exfoliates lightly.

Is a straight razor better than a safety razor?

Closer, and cheaper to run. Also far less forgiving. It rewards practice and punishes haste.

Should you shave straight after a shower?

Yes. Warm water softens the hair and the skin, and the face is already clean.

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